Gourmet Food Parlour, Dun Laoghaire.
7 CUMBERLAND STREET DUN LAOGHAIRE CO DUBLIN
Fri 8:30am-LATE – Open for TAPAS with live music.
Serving brunch all day Saturday and Sunday.
The Gourmet Food Parlour is just before the traffic lights at York Road, if you’re coming from Dublin. I’ve always looked at the traffic lights and not to my left, where you’ll find the Parlour.
I was there to meet Roisin O’Hea and Bairbre Power, and we got a table by the window. The position was nice, but it was surrounded by high chairs, which are not a favourite form of seating.
Later on, I noticed there were a couple of tables at normal height, but the majority of the seating is high.
It makes sense when you discover that the Parlour specialises in tapas, which are designed more for a quick snack than a long, lingering dinner.
What they have, which sets it apart from other tapas bars, is a combination offer, in which you pick a tapa as a starter and then choose a main course from a blackboard.
If you do this, you’ll pay €15 for the two dishes and you can have a bottle of house wine for €15.
We considered this offer, but, in the end, decided that since it specialised in tapas, the smart thing to do was order tapas.
There’s a suggestion on the menu that two or three tapas per person should be ample, and if we had been sensible we might have heeded that suggestion.
Instead, we simply ordered every dish that looked interesting, so that was 12.
If you should ever go here, take the advice on their menu and don’t do what we did. Even eating more than usual, some of the dishes went back to the kitchen unfinished. But it did give us a good sample of the menu.
The first three dishes to come to the table were chorizo cooked in red wine, warm fresh breads and dips, and deep-fried aubergine with Mahon cheese.
Good dips of pesto, hummus and sun-dried tomato plus decent bread made a good start, along with very tasty aubergine slices and properly cooked chorizo.
Next came a dish described as ‘surf ‘n’ turf’, which was black pudding, pan-fried scallops and crispy pancetta, along with a small sliced sirloin steak served with horseradish puree and samphire.
A tinned pot of sweet-potato chips with aioli arrived with them, and they were so tasty we ordered a second round.
The surf ‘n’ turf dish worked fairly well, and I’m getting used to finding black pudding in unusual pairings.
The steak was tender enough, but the horseradish puree and the samphire were delicious.
This might have been a good place to stop, but there was still a lot to come.
The next arrivals were marinated neck of lamb with a tzatziki dressing and crumbled feta, pork belly served with an apple compote, and meatballs in a tomato sauce.
The lamb had been slow-cooked and was very good; well-flavoured and very tender. The pork belly arrived as three small rectangles – perfect as there were three of us.
I had the same reservation about the meatballs that I often have, which is I would have preferred a finer mince. I like my meatballs not to fall apart when I cut them.
And that too might have been a good place to stop, but even more arrived. Next came prawns pil pil and a large raviolo, covered in a pesto cream and Parmesan shavings.
I liked both of dishes, and they both ended up as empty plates.
Obviously, that would also have been a good place to stop, but we decided on desserts. We chose two cheesecakes – a baked American cheesecake with a caramel topping and fruit compote, as well as the aptly named red velvet cheesecake. Both of these were well made, with a fine texture and a good taste.
Despite our many dishes, these got finished.
No wine is going to pair with all the different dishes we’d had, but we chose a Pinot Gris from Australia’s Wairau River, which had a pleasant crispness and was listed at €29.
Four glasses of the house red at €6 each and three large bottles of mineral water completed the drinks order. These and two espressos brought our bill to €154.
Reviewed by Paolo Tullio